Definition
Single jersey is a knit fabric made on one needle bed, giving it a smooth face of vertical stitches and a looped, slightly bumpy back. It is the most produced knit in apparel and the default construction for basic t-shirts. It is light, stretches across the width, and curls at the cut edges.
Definition
Single jersey is defined by its machine setup: one set of needles, one yarn feed, one row of loops pulled through the row beneath it. That single-bed structure is why the two sides never match. Pick up any plain crew-neck tee, turn the hem inside out, and compare the neat ribbed columns outside with the wavy loops inside. That difference is single jersey, and it is the reason an unfinished edge always rolls toward the back.
How single jersey works
The fabric is knitted in a tube on a circular machine. Yarn feeds through needles arranged in a cylinder, each needle catches the yarn and pulls a new loop through the old one, and the tube grows upward. Gauge, the number of needles per inch, sets how fine the stitches are. A 24-gauge machine produces the tight, smooth surface used for premium tees, while a coarser gauge gives a more open, rustic look. Because only one needle bed is working, the fabric uses less yarn than a double knit at the same width, so it costs less per meter.
Weight is where most decisions land. Single jersey runs from roughly 110 GSM for sheer summer tees up to about 220 GSM for heavyweight boxy styles, with 150 to 180 GSM covering most branded work. Stretch is mainly horizontal, around 20 to 30 percent, unless elastane is added. The trade-off you cannot avoid is curl. Loop tension is unbalanced between the face and the back, so raw edges roll and the fabric wants to twist. Manufacturers manage this with heat setting, side seams, and careful cutting, but it is why single jersey is not used for flat, unstructured hems.
Fiber changes the character completely. Combed cotton single jersey feels soft and prints clean. Ringspun and carded cotton sit below it on smoothness. Polyester single jersey wicks moisture and holds shape for sports tees, and cotton-polyester blends split the difference. For decoration, the smooth face takes screen printing and DTG well, though a low GSM shows the ink more on the reverse and a slubby surface breaks fine detail.
Single jersey in branded merch
- Standard branded t-shirts. Almost every event tee, onboarding shirt, and giveaway shirt is single jersey. It is the cheapest way to put a large, clean print in front of people, and 150 to 180 GSM cotton is the safe default.
- Heavyweight and oversized tees. The same knit at 200 to 220 GSM reads as premium streetwear. Merch teams use it when the shirt needs to survive the giveaway pile and become something people actually wear.
- Performance and event apparel. Polyester single jersey is the base for running shirts, race tees, and summer team kit, where moisture management matters more than hand-feel.
Single jersey is a one-sided weft knit with a smooth face and a looped back, the standard fabric for t-shirts because it is light, stretchy, and cheap to produce at volume.
5 tips to elevate your Single jersey strategy
| Tip | Steps |
|---|---|
| Set weight before design | Lock 150 to 180 GSM for standard tees, 200 GSM or more when the shirt must feel premium. |
| Expect the curl | Never design for a raw, unhemmed edge on single jersey, since it will roll toward the back. |
| Specify combed cotton | Combed single jersey has fewer short fibers, so prints land crisper and the surface pills less. |
| Check for twist | Ask whether the fabric is heat set, because untreated single jersey can spiral after washing. |
| Wash-test a sample | Run one sample through three washes before a big order to see real shrinkage and print hold. |
Key Terminologies
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between single jersey and double jersey?
Single jersey is knitted on one needle bed, so it has a smooth face, a looped back, and edges that curl. Double jersey is knitted on two needle beds, so both sides look alike, the fabric is thicker and more stable, and it lies flat.
Why does single jersey curl at the edges?
The loops pull with different tension on the face than on the back, and that imbalance twists any cut edge toward the looped side. It is a property of the knit itself, not a fault in the fabric.
What GSM is normal for a single jersey t-shirt?
Most branded tees land between 150 and 180 GSM. Below 140 GSM the shirt feels thin and can show the print through the back, while 200 GSM and above reads as heavyweight.
Does single jersey shrink?
Cotton single jersey typically shrinks 3 to 5 percent in length on the first wash unless it has been pre-shrunk or compacted. Polyester and blends move much less.
Is single jersey good for printing?
Yes. The smooth face is one of the easiest surfaces to print, and it works with screen printing, direct-to-garment, and heat transfer. Choose combed cotton and a higher GSM for the sharpest results.
